50/50
50 percent cotton & 50 percent polyester fabric; also referred to as poly-cotton.
Abraded Yarn
Continuous filament man-made yarns of whose outer surfaces have been roughed up or broken. This gives the yarn an appearance similar to spun yarn.
Abrasion Resistance
The ability of a fiber to withstand surface wear and rubbing. The best known test is used in the USA and is called the Wyzenbeek method.
Acridel
High-bulk acrylic knitting yarns used mainly for sweaters and hoisery.
Acrylic
A manufactured fiber made from long-chain synthetic polymers. Acrylic fibers are characteristically wrinkle resistant, with low moisture absorbency and quick-drying properties. Acrylic fibers provide warmth, yet are lightweight, soft and resilient.
Action Stretch
Fabrics and apparel with stretch and recovery in both warp and filling directions. Popular in ski-clothes, pants, active sportswear, and other body-fitting apparel where free body movement is desired or essential.
Air Jet
Technique for bulking filament yarns by treating them with pressurized air from a miniature spout.
Air Jet Spinning
During Air Jet Spinning yarn is made by wrapping fibers around a core stream of fibers with compressed air. In this process, the fibers are stretched to the appropriate size, then fed to the air jet chambers where they are twisted, first in one direction, then in the reverse direction in a second chamber. The yarn is stabilized after each operation.
Yarn produced on Air Jet pills less because the spinning process creates a tighter outer wrap which holds typically loose polyester fibers (experienced in Open End Spinning) in place. Fewer loose polyester fibers means less pilling.
Allen Solly Placket
A placket face set-on the inside of a garment. The shirt front itself makes up the top of the placket. Placket face constructions may include revere, clean finished and hidden fly.
Alpaca Cloth
Very soft and very light fabric with a silky hand. The fiber is obtained from the Alpaca goat. Alpaca resembles mohair and is often imitated in heaper versions using wool and rayon blends. It is used mainly for women's spring or fall coats, suits and sportswear.
Alpaca Wool
Fine long and lustrous hair of the Alpaca goat of South America, a domesticated hoofed mammal. Generally, alpaca is classifies as wool under current labeling laws.
Angora
Soft long hair of the Angora goat, often called mohair. The animal is native to Anatolia in the Angora province of Turkey, but is extensively raised today in Texas by western ranchers. Angora is classified as wool. Sometimes angora is obtained from the fur of the angora rabbit. RAbbit fiber is not classified as wool.
Antique Taffeta
A crisp taffeta made of uneven or snubbed yarns. Resembles silks made in ancient times.
Appearance Rating
Term applies to the smoothness of fabrics-usually wash and wear or durable press-after washing and tumble drying. Industry has adopted standard test methods for rating appearance.
Applique
A decoration or design made separately then embroidered, pasted, or sewn on a fabric or garment.
Argyle
A popular design for knitted fabrics, both hand and machine knit. Two or three colors generally are used in a diamond-shaped pattern.
Art Linen
Plain weave, cylindrical yarn with very soft Finish that makes the well-known needlework base fabric on which it is easy "to draw the yarns."
Asbestos
A non-metallic mineral fiber which is not flammable. The fiber is woven into fabrics and used for theater curtains, ironing board covers, pot holders, and other cloths where flame proof and heat proof protection is needed.
Back-filling
The technique of beefing up low grade low cost cloth to enhance its appearance. Only one side of the goods is affected by the process. The filling solution is composed of varying amounts of corn starch, tale, China clay, and tallow. Other starches are often added and deemed necessary. In filling dyed goods, the compound is carefully colored to resemble closely the shade of the fabric itself. Care must be taken to prevent the filling starch from working to the surface of the fabric.
Backed Cloth
Single textile material with additional of an extra warp or filling added for weigh and warmth. The extra warp of filling may be in Frenchbacks, vestings, worsteds, dress goods, suitings, and skirtings. Stain weave construction, as well as twill weavers, are commonly used in the designing of the cloth.
Banded
Fabric is folded double and sewn down. Refers to tee shirt collars and staff shirt sleeves.
Banded Self Collar
A type of collar made of the same material as the shirt. The two basic kinds of this collar are the 'simulated' made of two pieces or the 'true' made of four pieces.
Bandle
A narrow, course, homespun linen made on hand looms in Ireland.
Barathea
Closely woven fabric with characteristic pebbly weave. Usually silk or rayon or blends with other fibers. Used for neckwear, dress goods, lightweight suitings.
Baseball Shirt
(Style) Shirt typically featuring crew collar, white body, and three-quarter-length raglan sleeves in a contrasting color.
Basic Finish
Treatment or process designed to alter or improve the surface appearance, function or texture of a fabric. Examples include: mercerizing, calendering, glazing, moire, napping, shearing, cropping, embossing, sanding, or beetling.
Basket Weave
Two or more warp ends and filling picks which are woven as one in a plain weave formation which resembles a plaited basket. Hopsacking and monk's cloth are examples. Uses include shirtings, decorative fabrics and curtains. Because of their surface characteristics, basket weave fabrics do not withstand chafing, friction, abrasion, or wear very well, hence their use in apparel is somewhat limited.
Bast Fibers
Natural fibers found between the inner and outer core of many plants. Often they are long strong fibers with commercial uses. Examples of important bast fibers include: flax, ramie, jute, hemp, pineapple fiber, and sisal. Cotton is an example of a seed bast fiber, flax is a stalk bast fiber, while pineapple is a leaf bast fiber.
Bathrobe Blanketing
Double-faced cotton blanketing that is thick and warm. Woven with a tightly twisted warp and two sets of sort filling yarns which often are napped or sheared to produce a soft, cuddly surface. Used mainly for bathrobes, crib blankets, and baby buntings.
Batiste
In cotton, it is a sheer, fine, combed, mercerized muslin characterized by wide streaks in construction. Used mainly for blouses, summer shirts, dresses, infants wear, bonnets, and handkerchiefs. Also made of rayon and polyester and cotton blends.
Bayardere
Plain or fancy stripes, woven or knitted through a fabric in cross wide direction.
Bean Stitch
Three stitches placed back and forth between two points. Often used for outlining, because it eliminates the need for repeatedly digitizing a single-ply running stitch outline.
Beetling
A mechanical treatment that uses beetlers or fallers to give fabric surfaces a flattered appearance. The spaces between warp and filling are covered up and tend to produce a high gloss to the material.
Berber
A texture very similar to Sherpa, but with a heavier, more woolen texture - used for Outerwear.
Binder
A binder is used in pigment dyeing to help the color pigment adhere to the garment. In the process the binder adds weight and thickness to the garment.
Birdseye
Cotton or linen cloth woven on a dobby loom characterized with a small geometric pattern that has a center dot resembling a bird's eye.
Blends
Combining of two or more types of staple fibers in one yarn to achieve color mixtures such as heather, unusual dyeing variations, or better performance characteristics.
Boatneck
An extra-wide neckline extending to or toward the shoulder seams.
Bouclé
Knitted or woven fabrics with characteristic looped or knotted surface that often resembles a spongy effect.
Bound Side Seam
When the two fabric edges along the side of a garment are reinforced with an additional piece of narrow fabric to prevent fraying or raveling.
Breathability
The ability of a fabric coating or laminate to transfer water vapor from one if its surfaces through the material to the other surface.
Broadcloth
Tightly woven lustrous cotton cloth with fine imbedded crosswide ribs that resembles poplin. Ribs are finer than those in polin and broadcloth has more picks. Newest versions today combine yarns blended with polyester and other man-made fibers.
Brushing
A finishing process for knit or woven fabrics in which brushes or other abrading devices are used to raise a nap on fabrics, or create a novelty surface texture.
Buckram Backing
Stiff fabric used to give shape and form to items like caps, belts, etc. Also used to stabilize embroidery edges.
Burguntal Cloth
Constructed from 100% nylon. This durable base fabric has a water repellent finish applied to the face, which prevents water drops from soaking into the nylon. The back is coated with Polyurethane for added water resistance and wind protection.
Burlap
Coarse, canvas-like fabric usually made of jute, but can be made of hemp, or cotton.
Burn-out
A process of printing which uses chemicals, rather than color, to burn out or dissolve away one fiber in a sized cloth. Purpose is to achieve a sheer lacy and heavy design. Also used to obtain eyelets or other type holes in a fabric.
Byron Collar
Collar with large points and not much of a roll.
Calendering
A mechanical finishing process for fabrics to produce special effects such as high luster, glazing and moire. Fabric is passed between heated rolls under pressure.
Calico
Usually a plain, closely woven, inexpensive cloth made in solid colors on a while or contrasting background. Often, one, two, or three colors are seen on the face of the goods which are usually discharge or resist printed, frequently in a small floral pattern, used mainly for aprons, dresses, crazy quilts, or sportswear.
Cambric
Soft, white, closely woven cotton fabric calendered to achieve a high glaze. Used mainl for pocket linings, underwear, aprons, and handkerchiefs.
Camel Hair
Wool-like underhair of the camel that is lustrous and extremely soft. Because it is expensive, often used in blends with wool for coats, suits, sweaters, blankets, and oriental rugs. Natural colors range from light tan to brownish black. Classified as wool under the Wool Products Labeling Act.
Canton Flannel
Heavy, warm cotton material that is strong and absorbent, with a twilled surface and long soft nap on the back. Used mainly for interlinings and sleeping garments where warmth is desirable.
Canvas
Cotton, linen, or synthetic fabric made with an even weave in heavy and firm weights for sails and industrial purpose. Ada or Java canvas is stiff open weave fabric used for yarn needlework. Awning strip canvas has painted or woven stripes on cotton duck. Cross-stitch or Penelope canvas has stiff open mes and is used for fine cross stitched work. Unbleached linen canvas is used mainly for interlinings.
Carded
Description of a continuous web of sliver produced by carding.
Carded Cotton
Yarn that has been cleaned. aligned and formed into a continuous untwisted strand but has NOT gone through additional spinning processes like combing or ringspinning.
Carding
Preliminary process in yarn spinning. Fibers are separated and made in to more parallel-untwisted strand called slivers. This process also removes most of the impurities and a certain amount of short to broken fibers. This is achieved by passing the fibers between moving pins, wires or teeth
Cavalry Twill
A strong, rugged cloth made with a pronounced raised cord on a 63-degree twill weave. The weave used for cavalry twill and elastique are the same. Cavalry twill has a somewhat coarser rib effect than elastique, which is smoother. Also known as tricotine.
Center Line/ Center Crease
Helps line up garment for screenprint or embroidery. Disadvantage- if line is not actually centered, it is more difficult to center logo.
Chambray
Popular variety of cotton fabric in a relatively square count-80 by 76- that combines colored warp and white filling yarns in plain weave. May be carded or combed in stripes, checks, and dobby designs.
Charmeuse
(1) A lightweight silk, cotton or man-made fiber dress fabric which is soft and drapes well. It is smooth, has a semi- lustrous satin face and dull back. Hard twist yarn is used for the warp with a crepe yarn filling. It is syed in the piece or printed. (2) A soft, lustrous finish produced by mercerizing and schreinerizing.
Chased
A calendered finish for cotton fabrics that imparts beetled "bright-and-dim" surface effects.
Cheesecloth
Plain, woven, soft, fragile, low-count cotton fabric similar to tobacco cloth and also known as gauze. When bleached and starched it is called scrim. Limited apparel applications but better grades are used for fancy dress costumes, experimental drapings, and cheap flag bunting.
Chenille
A fuzzy yarn whose pile resembles a caterpillar. Used mainly for decorative fabrics, embroidery, and rugs. Somtimes used broadly to define a fabric woven from chenille yarns.
Cheviot
A popular staple lightweight sport coating tweed with a rough napped surface. Fabric is rugged, rather harsh in the hand, with somewhat uneven yarns. Usually twilled diagonally or woven in chevrons.
Chevron
A zigzag stitch VERY similar to Herringbone.
Chiffon
Very light, usually transparent fabrics, in plain weaves. The term "chiffon" implies thinness, diaphanous, or gauze-like structure and softness. Originally made of silk, today may be found in a wide variety of fibers.
Chinchilla Cloth
A heavy conventional, twill-weave coating with a spongy napped surface that is rolled into little tufts or nubs to resemble chinchilla fur. Usually made from wool or wool cotton blens in coating weights.
Chino
Classic all-cotton "Army twill" fabric made of combed two-ply yarns. Usually vay dyed, mercerized, and Sanforized.
Clean Finished Placket
Typically the interfacing of plackets are raw or edged, which means they can look ragged or uneven, particularly on light colored shirts. Cutting the interfacing in a rectangle, turning the edges under and fusing them in place, creates a straight placket with no raw edges. All that shows inside the shirt is about 1/4 inch of the smooth edge.
Clean Finished Vents
Clean finished vents are formed by turning all raw edges under in a double fold and then stitching with a single needle. This has no functional purpose but gives a neater appearance.
Color Abrasion
Color changes in localized areas of a garment due to differential wear of unlike fibers or dye failure. Often evident in crossdye shades of blends where durable press treatments are applied. Color abrasion is often called "frosting".
Color Blocking
Merchandising and/or cutting term, whereby a certain stripe or block of color ends up in the same place every time on the finish garment.
Colorfast
A term used to describe fabrics of sufficient color retention so that no noticeable changes in shed takes place during the "normal" life of the garment.
Colorfastness
Resistance to fading. The ability of a dyed material to retain its color when exposed to light, atmospheric gases or washing.
Combed Cotton
Cotton which has gone through a mechanical process which removes short fibers and impurities. This process also strengthens and aligns long fibers.
Combing
A cleansing process after carding where shorter fibers and additional impurities are removed from the staple fiber. It knits better, has a softer hand, and accepts dyes better.
Compacting
A thermo-mechanical process whereby fabric is processed through two sets of rollers along with steam heat and pressure to squeeze the threads together, thus reducing shrinkage.
Constructed
Crown of a cap has Buckram to give the cap shape even when it is not being worn.
Cool Max
A thermo-mechanical process whereby fabric is processed through two sets of rollers along with steam heat and pressure to squeeze the threads together, thus reducing shrinkage.
Cordura
Trademark of Dupont Company, for air-textured nylon yarn.
Corduroy
A cut filling pile cloth with narrow to wide wales which run in the warp direction and made possibly by use of an extra set of filling yarns in the construction. The back is of plain or twill weave. Washable types are available and stretch and durable press versions are very popular. Usually an all-cotton cloth, today many corduroys are made with blends of polyester, nylon or other fibers.
Core Vents
Efficiently dissipate excess body heat and perspiration vapor.
Cotton
Cotton is named for a shrubby plant (genus Gossypium) of the MALLOW family, for the fibers surrounding the seeds, and for the cloth woven from the spun fibers. Each of the seeds, which are contained in capsules, or bolls, is surrounded by white or cream-colored downy fibers that flatten and twist naturally as they dry. Cotton is tropical in origin but is now cultivated worldwide. It has been spun, woven, and dyed since prehistoric times.
Cover
(Cap) The front, back and tip of a crown when it is sewn together.
Cover Stitch
A stitch which serves to cover 'raw' fabric edges. It usually requires two needles and an interlocking looper thread. Often shown on the outside of the shirt, this stitch is also used to strengthen and decorate.
Coverseaming/Coverstitching
Two needles to overlap the threads underneath, reinforcing the seams with a smooth layer of threads. (looks similar to double needle stitching)
Crash
A coarse fabric having a rough irregular surface obtained by weaving thick and uneven yarns. Usually cotton or linen, sometimes spun rayon or blends. Made in various weights and used in dresses, draperies, table linen. Softer weave woolen crash is used widely for fashion suitings and draperies.
Crease Resistance Finish
Also referred to CRF Finish. Various finishes for fabrics that make them resistan to wrinkling. Often based to resin type finishes such as durable press. Today some fabrics are made highly resistant to wrinkling through fiber blending and construction.
Crease Retention
The ability of a cloth to retain a fold or pleat that has been created purposely, usually by a heat treatment. Heat-setting thermoplastic fibers such as nylon and polyester causes creases to be permanently set.
Crease Versus Wrinkle
A crease is a line or mark produced in a fabric by folding. A wrinkle is a ridge or furrow on the surface caused by contraction, folding, etc. A crease may be intentional deformation of a fabric formed by processing. A wrinkle is formed unintentionally by wearing or washing and usually can be removed by pressing or steaming. In durable press, creases are not removable and there is an absence of wrinkles.
Crepe
A variety of lightweight fabrics characterized by a crinkly surface obtained either via use of hard twist yarns, chemical treatments, weave, construction, or some form of embossing or surface treatment. Crepes are available today in an unlimited variety of fibers and blends and in many different constructions.
Crew Collar
A rounded, ribbed collar cut close to the neck.
Crocheting
A fabric, trimming, or lace made by interlocking successive loops or stitches with a hook or needle. In knitting, the entire series of loops that go to form one length, round or circumference are retained on one or more needles while a new series is formed on a sepereate needle. May be done by hand or by machine.
Crocking
The tendency of excess dyes to rub off. Napped and pile fabrics in deep colors are the most likely to crock. Industry has set standards and tests to measure and prevent crocking.
Crop Top
A shirt style made to expose midriff.
Cross Stitch Buttons
Attaching a four hole button by stitching diagonally across forming an "X". This adds strength and stability and is aesthetically more appealing.
CrossWinds
Lightweight wind protection. CrossWinds shells are extremely packable and compressible.
Crown
The uppermost part of a cap or hat that is sewn to either a hat band, brim or sweat band. Visors do not have crowns, only front panels.
Denier
A weight-per-unit-length measure of any linear material. Officially, it is the number of unit weights of 0.05 grams per 450-mer length. This is numerically equal to the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of the material. Denier is a direct numbering system in which the low numbers represent the finer sizes and the higher numbers the coarser sizes. In the U.S. the denier is used for numbering filament yarns (except glass), man-made fiber staple (but not spun yarns), and tow. In most countries outside the U.S. the denier system has been replaced by the tex system.
Denim
A basic cotton or blended fabric with right-or-left-hand twill constructions. The warp is dyed blue (usually) with a white filling.
Diaper Cloth
A soft absorbent cotton fabric bleached white. There are four basic types: (1) Birdseye diaper cloth in cobby weave (2) Soft plain weave flannel (3) Plain knit diaper cloth (4) Twill-weave cotton diaper flannel.
Digitizing
Method of recreating an embroidery design through information entered into a computer. Instead of a physical act of punching paper tape, digitizing involves numerical calculations fed through an automatic machine to determine the points of embroidery stitches in a design.
Dobby
When weaving fabric, geometric shapes are woven into the weaving pattern. The fabric is often of a complex construction, woven on a dobby machine by selectively raising some warp threads and selectively depressing others.
Dotted Swiss
A sheer cotton fabric embellished with small dots. The dots may vary in color and can be applied to the goods in a variety of methods including flocking, clipspotting, swivel weaving, lappet weaving, etc. Uses include; evening wear, bridal wear, dress goods, baby clothes, curtainings, etc.
Down
The soft fluffy under feathers of ducks, geese, or other water fowl used for quiltting fashion apparel or stuffing pillows, quilts, or cushions. Down is very lightweight and warm.
Drop-Tail Hem
Style of hem where the back panel of the shirt drops lower than the front.
DryPoint ™ Semi-Oxford
A modified basket weave of 100% Nylon coated with Ether-based Poly Urethane. Extremely durable and absolutely waterproof.
Duck
The name duck covers a wide range of fabrics. It is one of the most durable fabrics made. A closely woven, heavy material.
Dungaree
Work fabrics made of coarse cotton denim, usually blue. Originally used for sailors' work clothes, overalls, etc.
East Coast Collar
Used to define a placket construction which buttons fully to the top of the placket -- usually in reference to a dress shirt. (See: West Coast Collar)
Edge Roll
The usual cod or roll that develops at the edges of a single knit fabric making it somewhat difficult to handle since it does not lie completely flat on a cutting table.
Elasticity
The ability of a strained material to recover its original size and shape immediately after removal of the stress that caused deformation.
Embossing
A process for producing raised or projected figures or designs in relief on fabric surfaces.
Embossing
A surface effect achieved on fabric by means of passing cloth through a series of engraved rollers that impart figures or designs to its surface. Rollers work through heat and pressure.
Embroidery
Omamental needlework consisting of designs worked on fabric with either, silk, cotton, metalized or other threads, either by hand or machine.
End-And-End
Broadcloth, chambray, madras, or other fabric having alternating warp yarns. Usually one in color and one white. Term also refers to fabrics with two colors alternating in the warp.
End-on-End
Fabrics having alternating warp yarns, usually one in color and the other in white, resulting in an alternating color or striped effect.
Engineered Stripes
A shirt cut and constructed so that the stripe pattern or insert in the body or sleeve is placed to fall in the exact same location on every shirt.
Enzyme Wash
A fabric softening process that gives a soft hand to fabric and wears the color VERY slightly. Does NOT have a washed out look like PIGMENT DYE.
Eyelet
A small hole or perforation made in a series to receive a string or tape. Often worked around with a buttonhole stitch. Applied especially to garments made of broadcloth, dimity, organdy, pique, and lace.
Fastness
The quality of not fading.
Fiber-Reactive Dye
Class of dye used on 100% cotton or rayon. One of the most expensive dyes, it has a superior color fastness and brightness.
Findings
Pockets, linings, zippers and other sundry and supplementary items used in the manufacture of garments.
Fisheye
Large diamond-effect linen cloth that is similar in shape to the eye of a fish. Comparable with the smaller pattern noted in birdseye, and used for the same purposes.
Flannel
Usually a cotton or rayon fabric slightly napped on both sides to resemble woolen fabric used for some dress goods, blanking, coating, etc. Woolen and worsted flannels are also popular.
Fleece
A fabric with pile or napped surface sometimes of a unit construction; commonly used in sweats.
Foamback
Term used to denote that a fabric has been laminated to a backing of polyurethane or ecrylic foam.
Football Jersey
A jersey shirt with a slight V-neck, stitched yoke and one-half to three-quarter length sleeves.
Four-needle stitching
Used to reinforce the waistband in shorts and sweatpants.
Front Panel
The front section of a cap or hat to which an imprint or emblem is applied.
Full-Fashioned
Knitting process whereby the pattern shape of an individual garment piece is formed in the knitting machine as opposed to being cut from a piece of cloth. Full-fashioned garments are typically expensive sweater knits where the sleeve is knit together with the body of the machine. Full-fashioned collar trims allow for one to control the shape/angle of the collar points.
Fully Taped Neck Seam
As the collar is attached, a strip of the body fabric is folded and sewn in the collar seam. The strip of body fabric is then folded down and single needle stitched to the body. This reinforces the neck or collar seam and gives a smooth, flat finish against the neck.
Gabardine
Firm, durable, compactly woven cloth, which shows a decided diagonal line on the face of the goods: made on a 45-degree or 63-degree, right-hand twill.
Garment Dyed
Garments made from undyed (griege) fabric, then dyed in garment form. Most are 100% cotton, as natural fibers accept dyes better than synthetic fabrics do.
Garment Dyeing
The process of dyeing finished garments. Garment dyeing does not involve the multitude of finishing processes that piece dyeing does.
Gassing
The process of burning off protruding fibers from yarns and cloths by passing them over a gas flame or heated copper plates. This gives the fabric a smooth surface which is very necessary for fabrics to be printed, and for those where a very smooth, invitting hand is desired. Also called singeing.
Gauze
Thin, sheer-woven cotton, wool, silk or synthetic fabric, similar to cheesecloth.
Gingham
Fabric with dyed yarns introduced at given intervals in both warp and filling to achieve block or check effects. The warp and filling may often be the same, even-sided, and balanced.
Glenm Plaid
Popular Scottish pattern for sportswear characterized by checks of two different sizes with similar color patterns. Made in many grades of fabric.
Graded Collar
The size of the collar changes proportionally with the size of the shirt.
Grams per Square Meter
A fabric weight measurement. Estimated by multiplying ounces per square yard by 34.
Griege (Grey) Goods
Fabric in an unbleached, undyed state.
Grommet
An eyelet of firm material to strengthen or protect an opening.
Grosgrain
A heavy, rather prominent ribbed fabric made from plain or rib weaves according to various combinations. The ribs will vary from a small number per inch to as high as 30 or 40 ribs to the inch. Made with silk or rayon warp and cotton filling, the fabric is rugged, durable, and of the formal type; it is dressy and in place at formal gatherings.
Gusset
Insert to widen and strengthen. Typically used in sleeve seams or side panels.
Habutai
Smooth soft plain weave silk originally handwoven in Japan.
Hand
The "feel" of a fabric or print.
Heather
Blended fibers combining to create a varicolored effect; for example, heather gray. Heathered fabric typically contains 3 fibers: cotton, polyester or rayon.
Henley
Shirt featuring a banded neck and button placket; may be ribbed.
Herringbone Knit
Knit pattern made of rows of parallel lines with adjacent rows slanting in reverse directions to form a chevron effect.
Herringbone twill
A broken twill weave giving a zigzag effect produced by alternating the direction of the twill. Same as the chevron weave.
Hidden-fly Placket
A placket design in which the buttons are not visible on the outside of the shirt. (See: Solly Placket)
High Crew
A crew neck cut higher than standard crew necks.
High Pile
A pile in a fabric which is more than one eighth of an inch in height. When the pile is one eighth of an inch or less, the fabric is called a low-pile cloth.
Honeycomb Waffle
A raised effect is seen in this material which gives the effect of the cellular comb of the honey bee. The high point on the one side of the material is the low point on the reverse side. Belongs in the pique family of fabrics.
Hound's Tooth
A medium-sized broken-check effect. The weave used is a four-end twill based on a herringbone weave with four ends to the right, followed by four ends to the left. The color is completely surrounded by white yarn, and the check is a four-pointed star, this two-up and two-down basic construction fabric is a staple inthe fabric trade.
HyventMicro Failleweave
A 100% coated Nylon flat ribbed fabric that is waterproof, windproof and very breathable with excellent abrasion and durability characteristic. Treated with a Durable Water Repellant finish to shed water.
Ingeo
Also known as corn; has characteristics of both natural and synthetic fibers. It has a soft hand, like cotton, but is naturally wicking, antimicrobial and wrinkle free. Requires 68% less energy to produce than polyester.
Intarsia
A geometrical pattern knitted in a different stitch and inlaid in a solid color to make both sides of a fabric look alike.
Interlock
A special type of eight-lock knit cloth, but is generally described as a double 1x1 rib with crossed sinker wales. The fabric has a smooth surface on both sides, possesses good weaving qualities. Has less elasticity than ribs and does not develop prominent ribs when stretched in the horizontal direction.
Jacquard
A method of weaving that utilizes a highly versatile mechanism (Jacquard attachment) to produce intricate patterns.
Jacquard Knit
A pattern that has been woven directly into the fabric in the manufacturing process. Typically, 2 or more colors are used to create a pattern.
Jaspe
A special heathering technique that mixes colored and white strands.
Jersey
A plain stitch knitted cloth in contrast to rib-knitted fabric. Material may be made circular, flat or warp knitted: the latter type jersey is sometimes known as tricot.
Kangaroo Pocket
A large front single pocket, with side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the Middle.
Kasha lining
A lining used for jackets featuring cotton flannel, napped face and initation chambray back.
Knapping
Refers to the inside of a fleece garment. Garment fabric brushed with a wire brush to give it a very soft hand.
Knit Gauge
This means the actual number of needles in 1 inches in a knitting machine. Each needle knits one wale in a vertical row of stitches, while a course is a row of horizontal stitches or loops that extend crosswise in the fabric. The higher the gauges, the finer will be the fabric.
Knit Pile
Refers to silver knitting which is a method of knitting both yarn and fiber into a fabric to provide an exceptionally deep pile effect.
Knit Terry
A tape of plated fabric which has two yarns in each stitch. The Terry effect, comparable with the woven fabric of this name, is obtained by drawing the back yarn into a longer sinker loop than the face yarn which forms the base of foundation fabric.
Kodel
Polyester fiber created and trademarked by Eastman Kodak Co.
Lap Shirt
An infant's shirt where the back panel or body of the shirt overlaps the front panel at the neckline where the set-in sleeve starts.
Lightfastness
The degree of resistance of dyed textiles to the color-bleaching influence of sunlight.
Linen
Flax is the plant, linen is the product from flax. The term, linen, cannot be used except for natural fiber flax. Among the properties of linen are rapid moisture absorption, fiber length of few inches to one yard, no fuzziness, does not soil quickly, a natural luster and stiffness.
Linen Fiber
Cellulose-based fiber derived from the stem of the flax plant. Linen fibers are much stronger and more lustrous than cotton. They yield cool, absorbent fabrics that wrinkle easily.
Lisle
High quality cotton yarn made by plying yarns spun from long combed cotton fibers.
Low Profile
Any crown of a cap that is less than 4" in height.
Lycra
Trademark of E.I du Pont de Nemours Co. for Spandex fiber. Offer elasticity, strength, abrasion resistance and long flex life.
Lycra Rib
Lycra is a man made fiber designed for elasticity. Lycra rib is a fabric characterized by its ribbed appearance. It is usually found in the cuffs and collars of turtleneck, mock turtleneck and athletic garments.
Lyocell
Generic name for TENCEL®.
Madras
One of the oldest staples in the cotton trade, it is made on plain-weave background which is usually white; stripes, cords, or minute checks may be used to form the pattern. Fancy effects are often of satin or basket weave, or small twill repeat.
Marled Yarn
Twisting a solid color yarn with a yarn of various colors to create a varied color effect.
Matelasse
A rather soft, double cloth or compound fabric which has a quilted surface effect.
Medium Weight
Classification for fabric of 22 to 24 single yarn, where the number of yarn denotes the overall fabric weight.
Melton
A heavily felted, hard, plain face-finished cloth used for over coatings, uniform tabrics, and hunting cloth.
Melton Wool
A heavily felted non-lustrous fabric. The heaviest type is used in outerwear.
Mercerization
Treatment for fabric (cotton yarn or cloth) to make it look silky or take dye better. Slightly preshrinks yarn and makes it stronger. This also helps with dye acceptance and improves fabric absorbency.
Mercerized Yarns
Mercerized yarns are sent through a caustic bath which swells the fibers making them more uniform and even, resulting in a luster. Mercerization slightly preshrinks the yarn making it stronger, improving shrinkage, durability, and permanent press characteristics of the finished garment This changes the physical structure slightly, making the fibers more readily accept dye -- enabling deeper, richer colors. It also improves the fabric absorbency thereby improving the comfort factor.
Mercerizing
A finishing process used extensively on cotton yarn and cloth consisting essentially of impregnating the material with a cold, strong, sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) solution. the treatment increases the strength and affinity for dyes and, if done under tension, the luster is greatly increased.
Merino
The highest, finest and best wool obtained anywhere in the world.
Mesh
Any fabric, knitted or woven, with an open texture, fine or coarse.
Metallic Cloth
Any fabric, often silk, that has gold, silver, tinsel, or other metal threads intersperesed throughout the design in the cloth.
Microfiber
This fabric is tightly woven from a very fine poly thread. The finished fabric has a sueded finish for a luxurious, soft feel. Microfiber fabric is naturally water repellant due to its construction process and, when specially treated, can also be waterproof.
Mock Turtleneck
A shortened version of the turtleneck where the neck of the garment does not fold over.
Mohair
Comes from the Angora goat, one of the oldest animals known to man. It is two-and-one-half times as strong as wool and outwears it.
Moleskin
Supposed to simulate fur of a mole. Carded cotton is knapped or brushed and then sheared for smoothness to provide a suede fur effect.
MTR Fleece™
(Maximum Thermal Retention) A non-pilling, 100% polyester fleece that provides a soft, warm insulating layer. Weighing about half as much as wool, MTR Fleece™ is quick drying and remains warm even when wet.
Muff Pocket
A large front single pocket, with side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the middle.
Mullens
Used to measure the strength of a fabric. Derived from the name of the machine used to test fabric strength, Mullens measure the pressure (pounds per square inch) needed to break the fabric.
Nailhead
A woven in or engineered design.
Nap
A fuzzy, fur-like feel created when fiber ends extend from the basic fabric structure to the fabric surface. The fabrics can be napped on either or both sides.
Napping
The raising of the fiber on the face of the goods by means of teasels or rollers covered with card clothing that are about one inch in height. Action by either method raises the protruding fibers and causes the finished fabric to provide greater warmth to the wearer, makes the cloth more compact, causes the fabric to become softer in hand or smoother in feel; increase durability and covers the minute areas between the interlacings of the warp and the filling.
Neoprene
A generic name for a type of synthetic rubber.
Net
A mesh fabric of rayon, nylon, cotton, or silk; made in a variety of geometric-shaped meshes of different sizes and weights.
Non-Crushable Linen
Plain weave cloth with highly twisted filling yarn or finished with resin to enhance elasticity. Serviceable, durable, does not wrinkle, launders well.
Nu-Blend (Jerzees)
Trademark process of spinning yarn that virtually eliminates pilling.
Nylon
A man-made fiber in which the forming substance is a synthetic polyamide. These fibers generally exhibit excellent strength, flexibility, elasticity and abrasion resistance.
Oatmeal Cloth
Soft, heavy linen cloth with a crepe or pebbled effect that resembles oatmeal paper. Strong, durable, launders well.
Omni-Dry™
Process keeps you dry and warm whatever the activity by drawing moisture to the fabric face where it wicks across the surface and evaporates. The rate of evaporation increases with the amount of moisture.
Open End Spinning
One of the newest innovations in preparing yarn by blowing fibers into a small rapidly spinning drum called a turbine with a stationary cylinder in its center. Seed yarn is fed via an air jet into the cylinder, which catches loose fibers whirling in the turbine. When the seed yarn is withdrawn and placed on spools it catches the loose fibers almost as a cotton candy machine catches its sugary filaments. Since O E turbines spin at speeds up to 60,000 revolutions per minute, the process is two to four times faster than conventional spinning thus effecting substantial cost savings in processing yarns.
Optical Brightener
A chemical used by bleachers to make the whites whiter. In shirts to be dyed, the bleacher needs to know so he can ensure that the optical brighteners are applied evenly. Otherwise, once the shirt is dyed, it may come out splotchy.
Ottoman
Silk or manmade-fiber yarn fabric; Often cotton, wool or waste yarn; warp covers the filling in entirely. Used for dress goods, coatings, hangings, etc.
Ottoman Pique
Silk or man-made fabric characterized by a heavy, large, rounded cord effect that creates a raised horizontal stripe pattern.
Oxford
A modified plain or weave. Can be striped or checked by using groups of various colored yarn.
Pebble Effect
Fabric with a rough, granite-like, irregular or pebble effect on the face of the goods. Most of the cloth is some type of crepe fabric.
PFD
Literally the initials stand for prepared for dyeing. It indicates that the garment has been specifically prepared for the garment-dyeing process.
Piece Dyed
The body and trim fabrics are dyed together to ensure a 100% color match.
Pigment
A very fine divided white or colored solid which is present in or on a fiber to impact dullness or color to the fiber.
Pigment Dyed
Insoluable color substance in finely ground powder form, which imparts its color to the fabric's surface.
Pill
A tangled ball of fibers that appears on the surface, as a result of wear or continued friction or rubbing on the surface of the fabric.
Pilling
The tendency of some yarns to form little balls of short, tangled fibers on the fabric surface. This tendency can be midigated by removing the short fibers (combing) or by adding additional twist.
Pima
High quality, long staple cotton fiber developed from Egyptian cotton seed. (Hybrid of various cottons including Egyptian jumel, sea island, and tanguis long staple).
Pin Point Pique
A medium-weight fabric, knit with a waffle pattern from a medium count yarn combined with Spandex. Knit in a single knit fabric construction, created on multi-feed circular knitting machines.
Pinwale
A very narrow ridge or rib in a fabric (from 16 to 23 wales to the inch) EX: Pinwale corduroy.
Pique
A knit fabric construction which gives an uneven (almost honeycomb) appearance on the face side of the fabric. This fabric is dense, yet breathes well.
Placket
The construction that forms the opening in the front of a shirt, allowing the wearer to put it on and off more easily.
Placket Shirt
A golf-style shirt featuring a slit extending down the front from the neck. The slit is usually secured with buttons.
Plaid
(1) A pattern consisting of colored bars or stripes which cross each other at right angles. (2) Rectangular piece of fabric or a garment, having a plaid or tartan design.
Plain Weave
The most common of the fundamental weaves. Each filling yarn passes successively over and under each warp yarn, alternating each row.
Plied Yarn
A twisting together of two or more single yarns in one operation.
Poly Nosic
Type of fabric that has a TWILL texture with a VERY soft "silk like" feel. This fabric will also protect against 95% of the UV rays from the sun.
Polyester
A man-made fiber in which the forming substance is any synthetic polymer. Polyester fibers are high strength and very resistant to shrinking and stretching.
Poplin
Durable, plain weave class of fabrics having fine cross ribs. Heavier than broadcloth, but not similar.
Pre-Shrunk
Fabrics or garments which have received a pre-shrinking treatment. Often done on cottons to remove the tendency for cloth to shrink before cutting the fabric for use in a garment to prevent further shrinkage.
Private Label
System of garment labeling in which a manufacturer produces apparel using the customer's name or logo on the sewn-in tag.
Pucker
The uneven surface caused by differential shrinkage in the two layers of a bonded fabric during processing, dry cleaning, or washing.
Puckering
A rippled appearance noted in garments, especially at the seams; irksome and difficult to remove.
Pullover
Type of garment (sweater, jacket, etc) that is pulled on over the head, as opposed to having a zippered or button closure.
Quality Control
Continuous testing, checking and inspecting of textile plant operations from raw material to finished fabric to make certain that raw materials, yarns and fabrics meet the quality standards as determined by the particular mill and/or by government agencies or textile associations such as the American Society for Textiles and Materials.
Quarter (1/4) Inch Reinforced Box
Added stitching at the botton of a placket that runs across the placket bottom and 1/4" back up the placket. This locks the two pieces of the placket bottom together to prevent separation.
Quarter Turning
Eliminates the center line by rotating the shirt at 900 so that the fold line is then under the arms. Currently, imprinters like this feature because it eliminates the center line.
Quilted (jacket)
Jacket featuring a lining with two or more layers and a padded filling.
Raglan
A type of sleeve sewn in with seams slanting outward from the neck to the underarm.
Rayon
A man-made fiber composed of regenerated cellulose. Created to simulate silk and is often lustrous.
Reactive Dyes
Used by most mills, reactive dyes are generally used to match a color with clarity and depth. It is necessary to have a cotton thread garment when using reactive dyes as they only penetrate cotton fiber. They provide excellent washfastness.
Reinforced Placket (X-Box)
A square or rectangular sewn area used to strengthen and reinforce the bottom of a placket.
Rib Knit
A form of knit fabric with vertical rows of knitting loops visible on both sides of the cloth. This fabric features more elasticity than jersey knit.
Ring Spun Cotton
Yarn produced on ring frame equipment; typically, this is a finer yarn, producing a softer hand.
Ringer
T-shirt, usually white bodied, featuring ribbed crew neck (and sleeve bands) in a contrasting color.
Ripstop
Very fine woven fabric, often NYLON, with coarse, strong yarns spaced at intervals so that tears will not spread.
Saddle Shoulder
Variation of a raglan sleeve, where the shoulder portion forms a straight band cut in the same piece with the sleeve. It is seamed front and back parallel to the shoulder instead of at an angle as in raglan style.
Safety Stitch
A stitch, requiring two needles, which joins two pieces of fabric. Found inside the shirt, it adds strength and neatness. It also prevents raveling by its interlocking stitch.
Sailcloth
Any heavy, plain-weave canvas fabric -- usually made of cotton, linen, polyester or nylon, etc. that is used for sails and apparel.
Scoop Neck
A rounded neck, larger than a crewneck, but smaller than a boatneck.
Scotchgard
Product of Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing Company, it is a fluorochemical oil and water-repellent finish applied during finishing.
Seamless Tubular Collar
Increases durability of collar and prevents splitting of collar seams.
Seersucker
Lightweight cloth made of cotton, nylon, silk, and in blends of these fibers. One warp weaves "tight", while the other one weaves "slack".
Self Collar
Collar comprised of the same type of piece goods used in the shirt body. The collar is made by sewing the two collar parts together with a lining in the center for support.
Set-In Placket
A placket construction technique where the top portion of the placket is not formed from the garment. It is a different piece of fabric sewn in separately.
Set-in Sleeves
Style of sleeve, which is sewn into the shoulder seam. The seam is straight up and down from the shoulder seam to the underarm.
Set-on Placket
Same form as a top center placket. A placket is set onto the top of the shirt front.
Shape Retention
The ability of a durable press garment to be washed and still retain the original shape of the new garment.
Sherpa
As garment is woven, the outside of the fabric is brushed with a wire brush to give the garment a very soft "fuzzy" feel.
Shirt-Tail Bottom
Hem in the style of a men's shirt. The tail is cut or slit at the sides.
Shoulder-to-Shoulder Taping
Shoulder seams, as well as neck seam are covered by tape or binding. This reinforces shoulder and neck seams, and reduces separation of the seams.
Shrinkage
The reduction in width and length, or both, that takes place in a fabric when it is washed or drycleaned. Residual shrinkage is the term used to indicate the percentage of shrinkage that occurs in the fabric at the time of its first washing. Shrinkage that may occur on each subsequent washing is the progressive shrinkage.
Shrinkage Rate
Approximately 4 - 5 % on most 100 % garments after pre-shrinking or compacting.
Single Knit
Cloth constructed on a circular machine with only one set of needles. Most T-shirts are single knit.
Single Needle
A stitch made with a single needle and thread, characterized by its straight-line pathway.
Singles
A name for yarn consisting of a single strand, usually used in T-shirts with '' to ' ' thickness. Also a term to indicate how the diameter of a yarn is measured. The smaller the number, the wider the yarn.
Sitka
A long-lasting, super-waterproof coating made perfect for wet weather.
Soil Release
The property of a fabric permitting removal of most oil and waterborne stains by ordinary home laundering. Suggests a special finish.
Solly Placket
Placket face that is set onto the inside of the garment with the shirt front itself forming the top of the placket. (See: Hiden-fly Placket)
Spandex Fiber
A manufacturer elastomeric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking, and will still recover to its original length.
Spun Yarn
A yarn made by taking a group of short staple fibers, which have been cut from the longer continuous filament fibers, and then twisting these short staple fibers together to form a single yarn, which is used for weaving or knitting fabrics.
Staple Fibers
Short fibers, typically ranging from ½ inch up to 18 inches long. Wool, cotton, and flax exist only as staple fibers. Manufactured staple fibers are cut to specific length form the continuous filament fiber. Usually the staple fiber is cut in length ranging from 1-1/2 inches to 8 inches long. A group of staple fibers are twisted together to form a yarn, which is then woven or knit into fabrics.
Stone Wash
A chemical or mechanical process where a dyed garment, usually black or navy, is treated with stones impregnated with potassium permanganate. The stones or pellets that are used come in all different sizes ranging from a golf ball size down to tiny particles. Through a tumbling and chemical process some of the color is bleached out, creating a splotchy look.
Structured
Crown of a cap has Buckram to give the cap shape even when it is not being worn.
Supima
Southwestern extra long staple cotton fiber grown by members of the Association. Cotton fiber from controlled seed in Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, and California.
Sweep
The measurement of the bottom of a garment. Some styles are more flared at the bottom.When measuring it is known as the sweep.
Tactel®
Trademark of the Dupont Company, for filament nylon fiber.
Taffeta
A fome-weave fabric smooth on both sides, usually with a sheen on its surface.
Talkeetna
Design for all-season active outdoor sports, Talkeetna shells use Core Vents and our new Hyvent waterproof/breathable coating to help keep your body cool and dry.
Taped Neck
Neckline in which seams are covered by tape or binding.
Taping
A small piece of woven tape sewn over a seam to add strength. Taping also improves the garment appearance -- most notably around the collar.
Tarlatan
Thick or thing scrim or muslin that is heavily starched.
Taslan
A durable nylon fabric that is generally used for rugged outerwear.
Tear Strength
The force required to begin or to continue a tear in a fabric under specified conditions.
Tencel®
Trademark of Courtlands. The first new fiber to be introduced in over 50 years. Made from the natural cellulose found in trees especially grown for this purpose. When one tree is harvested another is planted.
Characteristics: Very strong fiber; Soft, smooth hand; Excellent DRAPE when worn; Machine washable & Dryable; Low shrinkage; Wrinkle resistance
Tie Dye
A method of dyeing fabric in which parts of the fabric are tied so that they will not take the dye, giving the fabric a streaked, spiral or unique look.
Tipped Collar
A ribbed knit fashion collar with a contrast color knitted into the edge of the collar.
Tissue
The lighweight versions of fabrics such as batiste, chambray, crepe, dimity, faille, gingham, organdy, taffeta, voile, etc., are known by this term.
Toddler
A size denotation referring, in most cases, to sizes 2-4, 5-6 and 7.
Tone-on-Tone
A fabric printed in two tones of the same color.
Tricot
A thin texture, very fine yarn, knitted flat, with high, compact texture.
Tubular Knit
Cloth manufactured in a circular form.
Tweed
A rough, irregular, soft and flexible, unfinished shaggy woolen named for the Tweed River which seperates England from Scotland. One of the oldest and most popular outerwear fabrics used today, it is made of a two-and-two twill weave.
Twill
A fabric characterized by micro diagonal ribs producing a soft, smooth finish.
Twisted Yarns
Twisted, or plyed yarns, are composed by two or more yarns twisted together. The degree of twisting put on the yarns when woven can result in soft fabrics, or fabrics with increased body and structure.
Unbleached
Many fabrics, especially cottons, come in an unbleached or natural condition. Materials of this type have a sort of "creamy" or somewhat "dirty" white color cast and much foreign matter is often seen in them-burrs, neps, nubs, specks, et al. These fabrics are stronger than full-bleached fabrics.
Undervisor
The colored material on the bottom side of the visor. Years ago, the undervisor was always green because this color was considered easiest on the eyes. Today, however, we do have silver underbills, however, in most circumstances, the color of the undervisor matches the color of the cap.
Unstructured/Unconstructed
When there is no buckram in the crown of a cap. The cap only has shape when placed on the head.
UV Resistance
The ability of a material to retain strength and resist deterioration from exposure to sunlight.
V-notch
Triangular 2-ply patch of material sewn to the front of the neck for decorative purposes.
Velcro®
Registered trademark name for brand of hook-and-loop fabric fasteners.
Vents
Finished slits (in sides of garments)
Virgin Wool
Wool that has been clipped from a live sheep and has not been processed to the stage where it contains twist. Virgin wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in water while maintaining all its insulating qualities. Yet its surface is naturally water resistant, so you never feel damp or clammy.
Visor (Peak)
The front of the hat or cap that extends out from the front panel and acts as a sunshade. Also, a type of headwear that consists of the peak or sunshade only so that the top of the head is exposed. When referring to a full cap, visor is interchangeable with peak.
Waffle
Stitch used in KNIT goods to produce a series of square waffle-like designs.
Waffle Cloth
Fabric with a characteristic honeycomb weave. When made in cotton, it is called waffle pique. Sane as honeycomb cloth.
Wales
The individual loops of a course (vertical rows of loops) also, when referring to corduroy, the amount of ridges per inch in the fabric.
Water Repellent
Ability of a fabric to resist penetration by water, under certain conditions.
Water Resistant
Fabric treated chemically to resist water or it may be given a "wax-coating treatment" to make it repellent.
Waterproof
A term applied to fabrics whose pores have been closed, and therefore will not allow water or air to pass through.
Welt Cuff
A single ply rib fabric with a finished edge that is used for cuffs on short sleeve garments. This fabric is knit in a bolder stitch construction than a standard 1x1 rib.
Welt-Knit
Single-knit ribbed fabric made on a flat-bed knitting machine which produces either stripes (for cuffs) or collars.
Welted Sleeve Cuffs
Cuffs where the edge of the fabric is folded double and sewed down.
West Coast Collar
Used to define a placket construction which does not button fully to the top of the placket - usually in reference to a dress shirt. (See: East Coast Collar)
Wool
The fiber from the fleece of a sheep or lamb. Wool fabrics have good moisture absorption, are easily cleanable and are inherently flame retardant.
Woven
When a fabric is composed of two basic series of yarn, warp and filling.
Y-Placket
V-shaped placket for women with one, two or three buttons.
Yarn
A generic term used for a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric.
Yarn Dyeing
Yarn, which has been dyed prior to the weaving of the goods; follows the spinning of the yarn.
Yoke
A part of a garment fitted closely to the shoulders
Zambezi Cloth
Zambezi Cloth is a trademarked name of The Orvis Company. A 10-oz. cotton twill, it is more substantial than typical chino cloth. Zambezi Cloth offers a balance between strength and wrinkle resistance. Extra yarns, known as fill yarns, enhance strength and resiliency while maintaining suppleness.
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